Fashion Week(s) were back
and more Creative Director moves & NikeSkims
Clockwise from Top.
Continued Musical Chairs
The design duo behind Proenza Schouler have officially left the brand they founded, presumably to take over Loewe:
For months now, the fashion rumor mill has been running rampant about creative directors taking over major brands. Today, a clue finally came: Proenza Schouler founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are stepping down from their namesake brand. While it has not been announced, they’re presumed to be heading to Loewe. And, again, it’s just a rumor that the current Loewe designer, Jonathan Anderson, is headed to Dior, where Maria Grazia Chiuri has been the creative director since 2016.
Jonathan Anderson, who has disappeared from Loewe, is likely moving to greener pastures.
(Proenza has its beginnings in a note that Lazaro Hernandez slipped to Anna Wintour, handwritten on a cocktail napkin.)
With Kim Jones leaving Dior Men’s, the rumor is he will be taking over Dior (possibly Men’s + Women’s). The powers that be at LVMH believe Dior could be doing better, which could indicate that Maria Grazia Chiuri will be leaving the Women’s side.
And there are changes coming to the Italian conglomerate OTB: Glenn Martens is moving from Diesel to Margiela, and just recently, rumors are flying that Daniel Lee will be leaving Burberry for somewhere (Jil Sander?).
Also, Gucci is in need of a new creative director. (I am starting a petition for Simone Belotti, who is now at Bally and used to be at Gucci).
Whew. That still leaves a few prominent designers looking for new posts: John Galliano, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Hedi Slimane, and now Kim Jones, to name a few. Who will land at Fendi and Gucci?
A Quick Summation of PFW
The European Men’s Fashion Weeks recently wrapped up in London, Milan, and Paris. On the footwear front, we continued to see some new silhouettes.
Pharrell hosted his Louis Vuitton Men’s show, and showing off a new “ButterSoft” style:
(As a side note, the temporary 57th Street Louis Vuitton store looks stunning, and it’s crazy how much they spent on a temporary space. I was there during the week, and it was bumping and people were spending, contra the other nearby stores on Fifth Avenue.)
And on the other end of the spectrum, Kanye showed this new silhouette:
CDG had a number of collaborations, including this CDGH+ x Nike Air Rejuven8:
Jacquemus walked some stripey slip ons in their SS25 show:
If we can, we’ll try and dig into some of the other shows next week! :)
Athleisure 2.0
Nike more or less missed the boat on the yoga and wellness revolution that eaten up a large portion of the average US consumer spend over the past decade or so. Every Lululemon, Beyond Yoga, Athlete and Alo shows what a big miss Nike had in coming in late to this trend.
Enter: Nike x Skims.
They are clearly going strong after the women’s customer that has largely gravitated away from Nike for their sportswear needs:
“Nike and SKIMS share a deep commitment to innovation, inclusivity and pushing boundaries, driven by an unwavering belief in the power of women,” says Kim Kardashian, Co-Founder and Chief Creative Officer, SKIMS. “This partnership is the culmination of that shared vision, delivering product that is meticulously designed to sculpt and perform for every body. Every single detail has been obsessed over and carefully considered. We’re incredibly excited to unveil our first collection this spring.”
The above is how I picture Skims sitting within the Nike brand structure. Which really begs the question, is Kim Kardashian the women’s version of Michael Jordan?
A Marriage Proposal in Office Jargon
I had to post an excerpt of this:
GARY: This relationship has been such a value-add. Some of my friends were worried that it would take too long for us to get into alignment. But you have been an absolute rockstar.
CINDY: I feel the same way, Gary. The ROI on this relationship has been unbelievable. You’ve really given 110 percent.
GARY: So I wanted to close the loop. In addition to the other deliverables, I have one more. (He takes a knee, and holds out his hand.) It’s this wedding ring. Cindy, will you marry me?
CINDY: I will, Gary. You have been an absolute ninja. This moves the needle in a significant way.
As someone who flinches at this type of language, I had to circle back to this McSweeney piece.
Links.
Levi’s is launching a luxury denim line: Blue Tab.
and wander x Zara looks really good.
The movies that fashion designers watch over and over.
The private armies protecting the rich and famous in LA.
Menswear trends from the shows.
Is Auralee just the new The Row?
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From Team TT
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