Creative Director musical chairs: Hedi Slimane is no longer at Celine, where he doubled sales, and may go to Chanel, and is being replaced by Ralph Lauren’s Michael Rider. Could not stop laughing at this Instagram post from The Cut’s Lindsay Peoples. The Worlds 50 Best Hotels: #1 is in Bangkok, and only 4 locations in the US (Carlyle, Surf Club, Bel-Air and Aman NYC). And…lace sneakers from Aloha’s. The boldest Birkin.
VB: Meryll Rogge Is In It for the Long Haul
Madeleine Schulz has a nice mini profile of up-and-coming star designer Meryll Rogge, regularly tipped to take over the Dries Van Noten creative director role:
The designer has had a big year. In July, she was a finalist for the 2024 Andam Prize. She’s exhibited in a host of museums, including a solo show at Antwerp’s MoMu museum and a feature in its “Echo” exhibition, which centred on Louise Bourgeois, Simone Rocha and Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker. Celebrities from Hailey Bieber to Rihanna have worn her pieces, generating more buzz than ever. International stockists include Bergdorf Goodman (New York), Maxfield (Los Angeles), Icon (Brussels), Gr8 (Tokyo) and Camargue (Australia). “We worked really hard in the last few years,” Rogge says. “We really were able to show that we are stepping it up. We’re seeing the effects.”
She also spotlights Rogge’s consulting work, where she has regularly helped design well-received collections from Marc Jacobs and Dries Van Noten (including beauty).
Vogue: Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen Find a Home for The Row in Paris
Quiet luxury powerhouse The Row, led by the Olsen twins and fresh off a fundraise that values the brand at a call $1 Billion, opened their new Paris boutique. With out a handful of stores globally - New York City (Upper East Side), Amagansett, Los Angeles, London - each new location is a bonafide fashion industry event.
Like its other outposts, the First Arrondissement shop is chock full of legit art. It feels like a small art gallery that happens to also sell extremely expensive clothing. And, in a nod towards current retail trends, it includes an espresso bar. We particularly liked this nugget about a sliding door:
To enter that, you slide a handsome steel door with six small portholes, the other side of it backed with beautifully aged wood. It reminds me of the decor of the swanky and delicious Left Bank fish restaurant Le Duc, the design of which evokes a particularly chic ’70s yacht. “Was it once part of a kitchen?” I asked the Olsens of the door. Barely missing a beat, Mary-Kate replied, “It’s Jean Prouvé.”
And we have to imagine the new fundraising round will go towards new store openings. The Row caters towards VIC clients who often shop in person rather than on e-commerce.
The Cut: Outline’s Founders on Emotional Dressing
Chantal Fernandez has a lovely profile of Outline’s founders Margaret Austin and Hannah Rieke, and their instinct to open the buzziest boutique in Brooklyn:
Who will open the next great Brooklyn boutique? That was the question buyer Margaret Austin asked herself back in 2021 when Jen Mankins closed Bird, a beloved neighborhood institution that first brought emerging designers and hard-to-find European avant-gardists to Brooklyn. Austin grew up in Brooklyn Heights and learned her trade at Opening Ceremony and Totokaelo. But she always had the idea to open a store of her own one day. Suddenly, the timing seemed not just right but urgent. “I had this feeling that if I didn’t do it, someone else might,” Austin says.
Despite obvious challenges over the past 5 years, the NYC independent retail scene continues to evolve: Outline, the opening of Ven Space, Colbo.
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Bangkok is pretty well represented on the list of best hotels